The most important Italian fashion experts will be hosted in Treviso. “Label Matters”. The Fashion and Design Course hosted in Treviso and belonging to the IUAV, University’s Faculty.
06/06/2006 | Events |
Treviso Chamber of Commerce allocated, considering only the period 2005-2006, to fund IUAV courses, €3 millions and 400 thousand.
The workshop “Label Matters” started the last 31st of May closed the 1st of June, was part of the Fashion Design Course hosted by the Faculty in Treviso of the IUAV University.
The workshop born from an idea came to Ms M.L. Frisia, Course Director, Alessandra Vaccari and Elda Danese, during a trip, has been afterwards taken as focus of the two conference days in Treviso.
Ms M.L. Firsia presented the workshop programme, remembering the great financial ally: the Treviso Chamber of Commerce and underlined the strong will of this University Course in putting the foundations for a different school.
Ms Franca Coin, being warmly welcomed, took the microphone first. She started her speech, saying what a great honour was for her to be a member of a board where were sitting famous and talented as: Antonio Marras, Armani, Luciano Benetton, Abruzzese, Roberta di Camerino, Crespi, Ferrè, Alberta Ferretti, Franca Sozzani, Stefano Tonchi, Giusi Ferrè, Piergiorgio Coin, Luigino Rossi.
Ms Coin also addressed to Ms Maria Luisa Frisia a great admiration for everything she is realising, defining her as the personalisation of the “side thought”. A very pleasant atmosphere - underlined Franca Coin - created also by the students. She closed her speech using three world to define the creative being: humility, acceptance of risk and not to be afraid.
At this point, the word passed to Ms Paola Colaiacomo from the University “La Sapienza”, Rome. She assessed the need to build a new critic language. In fact, in pursuing her speech, she stated the need to create a new language for fashion, able to produce points of views, able to develop critic opinions. She highlighted the lack of critical approaches and pointing out that schools are the most important environments where students can be helped to shape their own critical opinions.
Ms Colaiacomo passed afterwards to introduce the label concept through few scenes taken by “The age of the Innocence” by Martin Scorsese: the Label as the symbol of formal rules as an overall, to be respected.
Some definitions of what is a label such as how to certify wine, or how to look at the washing instruction labels on clothing or as to add value if the label holds the MADE IN ITALY brand, have been given. Following, the ingredients, as contraindication, the packaging; all label matters.
Fashion is keeping the authority of the definition; labels are underlining such an authority.
Ms Colaiacomo closed her speech asking if the label is a fashion issue or fashion is just a label.
Barbara Franchin, director of EVE and ITS, spoke about the international competition that they called to intercept talents. The competition was meant for students to be part of a course that was including all the fashion aspects. Aim of such a course is to support young artists. They received projects from school all over the world, said Ms Barbara Bianchin, who addressed a hard critic to Italian schools, which are just able to provide computer design, courses without prepare youngsters to face the fashion world.
She continued telling the audience that the authors of the selected project, which were 20, over 850, did not have to support any expenses in regards to journeys, rents and meals. Moreover, the selected ones will have the possibility of a stage into a company. Fashion, she suggested, is an opportunity to sweat, to cry and to feel. Fashion is designing, always.
Giorgio Camuffo, from Camuffo Studio and a IUAV University teacher, introduced its own speech “Thinking with hands”. The hand to a creative is the beginning of his/her thought. Looking at objects in a tactile way, how they will be built. This is how he defined design. The main tool through which the creative can express him/her self is the drawing, a drawing is a reset of thought.
Ms Monica Bolzoni’s presentation focused on teaching methodology to designers in fashion design; she is from Bianco and Blu and also a IUAV teacher. She assessed that to design a project is to find with hard work the easiest thing. She defined herself as a craftswoman with atelier all over the world. However, she remarked that the relationship with the proportion of the human body has been forgotten. Any human body can wear a dress and the rest is style.
Barbara Giannelli, from Giannelli Studio spoke about the role and the importance of creative projects involved in licensing. She defined this stage as a practical creativity.
The profile of a director design is indispensable to give strong identity to the brand. Since 1994 she opened her consulting firm to plan brands development strategy. It is necessary – she pursued – to understand the brand’s DNA. Always more requested in the world and brand representatives is the concept, which has to be strong in order to define the image and the style above all, when there is the need to diversify. The licensing is fundamental for clues and suggestions but he/she, the designer, cannot be left alone. The concept must be given by the brand itself.
Barbara Giannelli remembered the Pucci brand‘s case history when they were determined to re-launch the brand. The Mason carried out surveys in the States and in Italy to understand his branding potential. Subsequently, the Mason sought a designer able to enter into the brand design and able to revive it without covering it with his/her own personal notoriety. It has been a good re-launch, demonstrated by the statistic data about the brand actual placement.
Benedetta Barbini from the University of Urbino introduced through her speech titled “A small ethic does not become a label”, another important issue. Her title is provoking Italian play on words referring to the creation of a national board made up by Italian fashion and design school teachers. She underlines that Italy is the nations of lost pearls.
The Treviso Chamber of Commerce Chair and President of Unioncamere , Mr Federico Tessari, has also offered a panoramic view on the clothing, shoes and textile sectors in Treviso which is a production, he remembers, that, in the most recent data, showed a considerable grow during the whole 2005:
- Training shoes export grew of the 3%, overcoming the threshold of €1.000,00 millions.
- The clothing sector too, jumped inwards, with an abroad sale increasing of the 7.6% against the previous year: form €796 to 857 millions.
The Fashion system in general, represents almost the 31.2% of the overall Treviso exports, which is a rising figure against the 30.7% recorded in the 2004.
No other Veneto province – says the Chair – the export activity about fashion production, to which must be added also the transferring abroad of semi-worked production, achieve this “weight”.
We are approaching the knowledge’s economy – continues – which foreseen the intelligent enterprise where will be of rising importance the human resources’s action able to express high profile quality and competence. We have to consider this instance as the internal logic of a evolving system.
The mission to fund and support this University is part of this project. The Treviso Chamber of Commerce allocated within the sole period of 2005-2006 three million and four thousand euros just for IUAV courses. Treviso Chamber of Commerce is the sole institutional and commercial body, which so decisively supported a University working so strictly with local enterprises.
A good news is that a new and more modern building is being projected in order to house in a more suitable way teachers and students’ activities.
Aim of Treviso Chamber of Commerce – Chair Tessari went on – is the one of transform this University and particularly the Fashion and Design course in a excellence for the whole Italian fashion world, meeting point for all the creative talented ones.
Great merit has to go to Prof. Maria Luisa Frisia for this Conference so well organised.
